Montagnard Weaving

Why this matters
HAVING SUFFERED UPHEAVAL, relocation and theft of their ancestral lands for decades, many Montagnard Dega in Vietnam can no longer continue to practice their traditional weaving or other cultural activities. As their culture is assimilated unique knowledge is being lost. In North Carolina continuing cultural practices such as weaving can help tell the story of who the Jarai, Bunong, Koho, Bahnar, Rhade and other Central Highland tribes are.

Fine quality craftsmanship has been a tradition here in North Carolina and a source of pride. It is something that Southeast Asian refugees can and should be a part of since they are now a permanent part of the state's diverse community and history. Purchase of North Carolina Montagnard Dega textiles encourages a demand for their skilled craftsmanship and ensures that this tradition will live on.

Want to support Dega weavers here in NC by making a purchase? Contact us.

Looms
The back-strap or body-tension loom has been used throughout Southeast Asia for thousands of years and is still used by Montagnard Dega in Vietnam and other hill tribes in neighboring countries.

Weaving consists of interlacing horizontal threads, called the weft, within a vertical series of threads, called the warp. Back-strap looms are generally no wider than the weaver’s arm span so large textiles are made by joining several separate pieces together.















In traditional Montagnard Dega weaving, the warp threads form a continuous loop or continuous warp around the breast beam (which sits in the weaver’s lap) and the warp beam (which is pressed taught by the weaver’s feet). The breast beam is held in place by tying a rope from each side around the weaver’s waist. Tension is adjusted by the weaver pressing her feet more firmly up against the warp beam or shifting her weight backwards.

The weaver alternates the raising of the heddle rod and the shed stick which creates an opening for passing a spool or shuttle with the weft thread back and forth. To make each row of the textile tight and uniform the weaver beats down the weft with a sword stick.

As the weaving progresses the woven textile is rolled around the breast beam, which can be two pieces of wood that clamp together.

Supplementary Thread Technique
The intricate patterns that characterize many Montagnard textiles are created by inserting threads into the main weave that form a contrast in color and design. From the front of the weaving these supplementary threads appear to be raised. If you look at the back side of the weaving you will see that these same threads appear to float on top of the warp or weft.















Materials
Originally Montagnard Dega weavers grew their own cotton, spun their thread by hand, and used dyes from the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria) and other natural sources. Decorative elements such as beads once were made from plant materials that grew in their rice fields. Contemporary Montagnard Dega weavers in the U.S. cannot grow their own cotton or spin their fibers by hand as this would be far too labor intensive and would only add to the cost of purchasing a textile. Weavers in the U.S. now use manufactured, dye fast cotton as well as wool threads. For a skilled weaver this makes no difference in quality and allows her more color choices and opportunities to develop her design skills within the traditional format.